Ayutthaya Tours

The Photographer's Guide to Ayutthaya

Wat Chaiwatthanaram under its evening floodlights

The short answer

Shoot the island early and the west bank late. The best single frame in the city is the Buddha head at Wat Mahathat, and it carries a rule: crouch, so your head is never above the Buddha's. Wat Chaiwatthanaram faces west across the river and is the one to save for the last hour of light. Several major temples are floodlit after dark, which is a different photograph again — and one you can only take if you stay the night or book a day built around it.

The light, and why the island and the west bank want different hours

Ayutthaya's brick is a warm red that goes flat in overhead sun and comes alive at either end of the day. That is not a preference, it is the whole game here, and it divides the city neatly in two.

The island monuments — Wat Mahathat, Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Ratchaburana — face in every direction and photograph best in the first two hours after opening, when the light is low and the coach parties from Bangkok physically cannot have arrived yet. Wat Chaiwatthanaram faces the water on a west bank, so it wants the last hour instead. Trying to do both well in the middle of one day is the commonest mistake.

The Buddha head, and the rule that comes with it

A sandstone head held in bodhi roots about a metre off the ground, at Wat Mahathat. It is the most photographed object in the city and there is almost always a short queue.

You are asked to crouch or kneel so that your own head is never higher than the Buddha's. It is signposted, staff enforce it, and it is not a suggestion. Practically, it also gives you the better photograph: down at that level the roots frame the face properly and the background falls away.

Useful tip. Go here first, before anywhere else on the island. The queue is shortest at opening, and the low side light through the roots is gone by mid-morning.

Six frames worth planning for

WhereThe shotWhen
Wat MahathatThe Buddha head in the roots, taken from a crouchFirst hour
Wat Phra Si SanphetThree chedi in a row from the brick pathEarly, or late
Wat RatchaburanaThe prang with its stucco still on itEarly
Wat LokayasutharamThe reclining Buddha, long lens down its lengthEarly morning
Wat ChaiwatthanaramThe prang group from the river sideLast hour
Wat Yai Chai MongkhonThe ranks of sashed Buddhas around the chediAny

After dark, and the honest caveat

Several of the major temples are floodlit in the evening, and Wat Chaiwatthanaram under lights is a genuinely different building from the one you saw at four o'clock. It is the photograph almost no day tripper comes home with.

Here is the caveat, plainly. The lighting hours and dates move with the season and with festival programming, and there is no reliable published schedule to plan around from abroad. Ask locally on the day. If night photography is why you are coming, stay the night in Ayutthaya rather than trying to build a day trip around it.

What to carry, and what not to bother with

  • A wide lens and a short telephoto. The prangs need width; the Buddha head and the sashed Buddhas need reach.
  • A polariser. Brick against a hard sky is exactly what it is for.
  • Something to kneel on. You will be low a lot, on gravel.
  • Spare water, not a spare body. Heat is the constraint here, not gear.
  • Not a drone. This is a protected national monument under the Fine Arts Department and Thailand requires drone registration. Do not improvise it on the day.

The season you shoot in

The cool, dry months from November to February give clean light and almost no rain — December sees 0.8 mm across the whole month. The trade is that everybody else comes then too, and your frames will have people in them.

The wet season from May to October is the underrated one for photographs. The ground is green rather than bleached, the skies have something in them, and there are far fewer visitors. Rain arrives in heavy bursts rather than all day. Month-by-month figures are on the weather page.

Dressing for it, and where you cannot go

Shoulders and knees covered at every temple, and long trousers at Bang Pa-In Royal Palace. That is not a photography rule but it decides whether you get in. Full detail on planning a visit.

Inside the enclosed temples you can photograph freely. The exception to remember is Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit, which is a working temple with people making offerings — take your shoes off, keep quiet, and read the room before you raise a camera.

Where the people are, and how to avoid being in your own frame

Crowding here is concentrated in both space and time. The coaches from Bangkok cannot arrive before about half past nine, because they are still on the expressway, and they work the island core first. If you are on the ground at opening you get an hour and a half of near-empty ruins, and it is the single most valuable thing you can do for your photographs.

The other trick is to invert the standard route. Most groups take Wat Mahathat, then Wat Phra Si Sanphet, then the west. Do the west first, come back through the centre as the groups move out to Wat Chaiwatthanaram, and you will have both ends to yourself. Wat Ratchaburana, across the road from Wat Mahathat, is skipped by so many itineraries that it is quiet at almost any hour.

Building a day around the light

  1. Opening. Wat Mahathat for the head, from a crouch.
  2. Still early. Wat Ratchaburana across the road, then Wat Phra Si Sanphet.
  3. Mid-morning. Wat Lokayasutharam, west and quiet.
  4. The middle of the day. Indoors. There is nothing to be gained outside.
  5. Late afternoon. Cross the river to Wat Chaiwatthanaram and stay for the last hour.

Only some itineraries do the last step, because it means crossing the river at the end of the day. Which ones reach it is set out across the Ayutthaya sunset tour listings, and where everything sits is on the map and layout page.

Photograph the island at dawn and the west bank at dusk, and you will come home with a city rather than a set of temple pictures. The trips that make the second half of that possible are on Ayutthaya Tours.

Days that reach the west bank late